Delhi Trip #1

Delhi. Population? Within the city proper the population is over 11 million, making it the 13th largest city in the world. However, the metro area (within commuter distance) has over 27 million people, making it the second largest metro area in the world, behind Tokyo. I'm living in Gurgaon, within this metro area. From my place, I walk outside the apartment complex, take a left, walk a couple of dusty blocks to an impromptu auto-rickshaw stand (a tarp with table and chairs underneath), and haggle over the price of an "auto" to Sikanderpur, my metro stop on the Yellow line to Delhi.

Here's the concourse of the Delhi Metro. My stop is open air and high above ground. Buy a token on the right, put your bag through the x-ray machine (mine gets personally inspected as well), get a quick frisk by the police, and you're in. I haven't had any trouble from anyone in Gurgaon or Delhi, but on this day, a young policeman walked up to me and said "What's your problem?" He caught me off guard. I said, "I'm waiting for a text to see where to go." And that was that.

I haven't been on the Metro when it isn't packed, so you'll be standing for the half hour or 45 minute ride. But it's icey cool inside, so you've got that going for you, which is nice.

The view as I pop out of the Metro in the Old Delhi area. Words that come to mind: Hot, gritty, vibrant, busy, chaotic, dense, resilient, antiquity. One thing that immediately struck me is the power and telephone lines. They are draped like electronic webs over anything and everything. It's amazing to me how it all works out.

My friend Shivangi (pronounced Shivang-ghee) was waiting for me. She haggled over the price of a rickshaw and off we went. Not too many cars in this area. This is a main street, but from here the streets quickly get smaller and smaller.

This wasn't even the smallest street. Those were two rickshaws wide. We bumped into a couple other rickshaws. Keep your hands and feet inside the car at all times. Shivangi asked the driver why we were going this way. "Traffic!" The streets are lined with shops. Somehow, these shops are organized by good or service. One block is auto parts. The next block is construction materials. How this organizational system works, I do not know. I wish I could've gotten a picture of the rickshaw that had about six or eight little uniformed kids on it who were coming home from school. They were really living it up.

On foot now. Again, notice the electric lines strung over everything. I'm sweating like crazy. A hanky for the back pocket of the white guy is a must at all times.

Our destination was Karim's restaurant. The Aziz family has been cooking for the Moghal empire since at least the mid 19th century. According to their website, "Cooking the royal food is the hereditary profession of the Karim's; because wherever the Moghal's went, they took our ancestors with them, right from the times of Babur." Babur was the first Moghal emperor of Central Asia and ruled during the 15th century.

My friend Shivangi. She's an editor for the Indian/English Oxford dictionary, and partially responsible for the 2014 admittance of the word prepone, as in, "let's prepone desert to before dinner." Apparently preponing is an Indian concept. Shivangi studied at the U of Oregon, is a great singer, is hilarious, and as you can see, loves to be photographed (or "clicked", as they say in India).

Karim's kitchen is behind the glass wall on the right. The service was excellent. We were seated at a four-top with a young Australian couple. They had moved to Delhi indefinitely for work.

Me with delicious mutton fat stuck in my teeth. We also had chicken. Karim's is known for their kababs, which were succulent and loaded with flavors from the grill.

In my gluttony, I accidentally swallowed whole a small green pepper. That was a fun couple of minutes. I could feel a wave of searing heat rise from my stomach, up through my chest, and into my eyes and nose. I can handle spicy food, but this was intense. It lasted a couple of minutes. The best way to cool yourself after spice is with dairy, so I ordered some khir, or rice pudding, which was FANTASTIC. Most khir doesn't come frozen, but this one did. In retrospect, I was glad I ate that whole pepper because otherwise I would've never ordered this khir, which I will definitely be attempting to recreate at home. (Ha. Hanky in view.)

Near Karim's there is a beautiful Islamic temple called Jama Masjid. The "World-Reflecting Mosque" took six years to build and was completed in 1656. Emporer Shajahan, the 5th Moghal Emperor of India, commissioned this mosque, as well as the Taj Mahal. What can you say? Nothing.

The street leading up to the mosque.

Just inside the entrance napped this little feline. You see stray dogs roaming the streets, but this was the first cat I saw.

People washed their hands and feet in this pool in the center of the courtyard.

The prayer hall.

Inside the prayer hall.

The view from the top of the mosque steps.

You may have seen some birds flying in the above photos. I think these are Black Kites. Whatever they are, this is the most I've seen in one spot.

Shivangi and I taking an auto to Hauz Khas. We bring the size to sunglasses fashion. If you need me, I'll be retiring in Florida.

I didn't get too many photos of the businesses in Hauz Khas on this day, but I've already been back and I will be posting more. Stop me if you've heard this before, but it reminds me of how Uptown Minneapolis USED to be. Heh. Lots of cool, stylish, and unique shops, restaurants, and bars. At the end of the main drag and near Deer Park (with actual deer) are three ancient structures: the mosque, the Madrasa, and the tomb of Firuz Shah. These date to the 13th century. Today, young people hang around this area and socialize. I'm gonna call it bohemian.

Overlooking the "water tank" from Firuz Shah's tomb.

We walked back into the business area and stopped in at a place called Social that Shivangi's friend helps manage. This is probably the most popular bar in the area. It was pretty trendy. The mixed drink menu was literally giant and they served equally large two foot tall Long Island iced teas, for example. Shivangi was partial to Kingfisher, the local lager, so that's what we ordered. The back windows and patio of Social overlook the water.

Eventually, manager Meg found us some seats at her table. The Social was marketing a new deal to young e-professionals. For a flat monthly fee you got all the food, drinks and wi-fi you wanted. At our table was an Indian-American who fled Wall Street to work in start-ups here in Delhi and an Indian-Englishwoman who had just finished working for Feed The Children, and was now seeing India. Shivangi and I enjoyed a craft cocktail and then said goodbye after agreeing to see some more of Delhi next weekend.

A special thank to Shivangi for being so cool and showing me around this part of Delhi! Thanks, Shiva! Next up, Connaught Place in Delhi. Peace!